Beginning Mosaic Techniques
Project Ideas:
Mosaic is extremely versatile and adaptable. You can mosaic a variety of indoor and outdoor surfaces using a large selection of materials. Some examples of projects you may wish to consider:
• Vases (glass or ceramic)
• Trays or trivets
• Frames
• Mirrors
• Planters or pots
• Stepping stones
• Household objects (not too many curves/angles)
Larger projects:
• Table tops
• Backsplashes
• Fireplaces
• Pathways
• Benches
• Floors/Flooring sections
• Walls/Murals
Tips to Start – Design:
• Start simple. Try a small project with limited curves/edges to become familiar with tools, methods, grouting etc.
• For a “picture/design” simple drawings (similar to those found in coloring books) work well. Sketch or draw out possible designs onto paper first to get a sense of the design, estimate of the amount of glass/tile needed and to see if you are happy with your idea. You may even want to use colored pencils or markers to color in the design to get a sense of what the finished project might look like.
• Once you are happy with your design, it works well to draw with a pencil onto your item. (If drawing on a surface such as glass, you may initially need to use a permanent marker, paint pen etc.)
• Once you have made final decisions about your pattern/design, draw it directly onto your product with permanent marker, being sure to outline all of the main areas and detail of your image.
Considerations for Outdoor Projects:
• If working on an outside project, such as a table, special wood called “Hardibacker Board” or “Wonderboard” (two types of backing material that are more durable than wood for the elements) would be used vs. porous plywood. Both can be found at home design stores. You will also need to be sure to use proper adhesives and sealants (more information below).
Mosaic Tile, Glass or Other Objects:
A variety of items can be glued/attached to your surface to create a unique mosaic masterpiece! Use your imagination and play with materials. Some possibilities:
• Small uniform glass squares (Smalti)
• Randomly or precisely cut shapes of colored glass
• Broken tempered glass
• Smooth beach glass
• Ceramic tile
• Ceramic plates and/or dishes
• Smooth stones
• Crystal “gems”
• Dichroic glass focal pieces or shapes
• Metal or plastic objects (some restrictions)
• Shells
• Coins
Be sure to consider the purpose/function of your object. If you will need to set items on it such as with a table top, a tray or a bench, you would want to use similar thickness with your mosaic items. If it is purely decorative, you can be more random to create a mixed-media or more dimensional piece. (For example, I once did a mosaic wall in a bathroom for a friend. I cut a china mug in half and attached it to the wall in order to create a “pocket” so to speak. This became the “toothbrush” holder!)
Cutting Ceramic Tile and/or Glass:
Tile and glass may be purchased pre-cut from a multitude of on-line sources. This method can work well for children, those who may have difficulty cutting such as with Arthritis, or those simply wishing to save time and/or simplify the process. This can be much more expensive! Sometimes, a mixture of pre-cut and hand-cut can create a unique project. Here are some tips to simplify the process of cutting ceramic and/or glass for mosaic art:
Cleaning/Preparation:
• It is important to have a work surface that is absolutely flat and free of debris. An uneven surface may cause your glass to break. Use a small brush to remove glass particles. Keep plenty of band-aides nearby!
• It is helpful to clean the surface of the glass with denatured alcohol but only necessary along where you plan to score. Any grime or silica (the substance that makes two pieces of glass slide on top of each other to prevent scratching) will ruin your score and make you think you cannot cut properly.
• Obtain a glass cutter. There are a few varieties with differing grip styles including a “pencil” grip which requires more finger strength and a “pistol” grip which requires more hand strength. A carbide tip is preferable for success and durability.
• It is not unlikely that you will obtain cuts when first learning. To minimize this, you may wish to use gloves that are form fitting (cloth or leather work well). You want them to fit snugly so that you can maintain your dexterity. You may wish to wear goggles to protect your eyes.
Cutting/Scoring Glass:
1.) Stand to cut glass so that you may see what you are doing and so that you can get the proper pressure from your shoulder rather than from your wrist.
2.) Grasp your cutter however feels comfortable to you in your hands. You may try several positions however, it should be perpendicular to the glass at all times which will allow for a better score and will not dull the cutter.
3.) Hold the glass securely with one hand while scoring with the other. Be sure to score on the shiny or smooth side of the glass.
4.) Begin scoring either away from or towards yourself (whichever you prefer). Maintain even pressure while scoring and be sure to score all the way through the glass. Failure to do so will result in the glass not breaking properly. Your score line should be visible and you should hear a “ripping” sound while cutting. (The less sound you make, the better your score tends to be). If you don’t see or hear it, then your pressure is too light. A heavy, white, fuzzy line indicates that you are using too much pressure which can dull your cutting blade. If you do push too hard (a very common mistake), your cut gets “hot” meaning that it snaps and pops. Microscopic imperfections in your score will cause your cut to go askew. In general, it requires approximately 5-10 lbs. of pressure to score glass which occurs with very little pressure. You are essentially only required to break the surface tension of the glass to cause it to “run”.
5.) Never go over the same score line. Doing so will dull your cutter and the glass will not break properly.
6.) Stop sort of the edge of the glass for longer cutter life.
7.) Always do the most difficult scores first.
8.) Glass typically wants to break in a straight line. You can coax it to do curves and with practice this will become easier. There are cutting aides such as a straight edge or ruler for straight lines, cutting systems such as the Morton System which allows for consistent straight and angled cuts, and circle cutting devices.
9.) You will hear varied opinions regarding the use of oil and lubricants when cutting. It is my opinion that lubricants are not necessary. (I have used my current Toyo cutter for 3 years with no problem without lubricant). They tend to be messy and bothersome.
Breaking the Glass:
10.) Hand Method: If the piece of glass is large enough, you may break by using your hands. Grasp the glass on the edge that is closest to you, your thumbs on the top side of the glass on each side of the score line and your index fingers on the underside of the glass. Holding the glass firmly, make a sharp upward and outward motion with both hands. The glass should snap cleanly and easily along the score line.
11.) Table Edge: A straight score line on a large piece of glass may be broken along the edge of a table. Position the score line so that it is parallel to but slightly over the edge of your work table. With one hand firmly holding the glass on the table, move the protruding piece quickly with a downward movement.
12.) Tapping: You may also use the ball on the end of the cutter to tap the underside of your glass directly on the score line. Tapping can most safely be accomplished by turning the piece over on your table and firmly tapping along the score line until the glass separates. Sometimes simply pressing on the score line from the underside will result in a run which helps create a clean break.
13.) Breaker/Grozers: You may also need to use the “breaker/grozer” pliers if there is not enough room to grip with the running pliers. These are pliers which have 2 distinct “jaws”. One is flat and the other curved. This allows for the pliers to be used in 2 different ways. With the curved jaw on top, this “grozing jaw” can be used to nibble away the edge of the glass. This is useful if small burr or shard pieces protrude from the glass. With the flat jaw on top, this “breaking jaw” can be used to break or snap the glass at the score line. With the flat jaw near the score line, break the glass using a downward motion.
14.) Running Pliers: The concave and convex jaws of the pliers will “run” the score line from one end of the glass to the other. The score line in the glass is lined up directly with the notch in the upper jaw. The handles are then squeezed gently, resulting in a clean break along the score line. Some models have screws with may be adjustable for varying thicknesses in glass.
15.) Double-Wheeled Glass Cutter: Another way to cut/break glass is to use a double-wheeled glass cutter. Note- Ceramic tile nippers are not made for glass and will most likely crack/fracture glass. The cutter is placed on the line which you would like to create the break and when squeezed will break the glass into two pieces if done cleanly.
Cutting/Breaking Ceramic Tile:
• One of the easiest methods for cutting tile is to use hand-held “tile nippers”. Grip the handles and squeeze firmly to break tile along a straight line. (Be aware of flying particles…protective eye-wear is advised).
• Standing is advisable if using a “glass cutter” to “score” the glass. Use firm even pressure and follow directions above as if cutting glass. You may then attempt to use tile nippers to break along score line.
• Ceramic may also be broken into randomly shaped pieces (more asymmetrical vs. symmetrical type look). Take a thick towel and place ceramic in center. Move to cement flooring (outside is advisable) and use a hammer to briskly hit tile. (Note- tile may cut through towel due to sharpness of edges. You can play around with thickness, placing in bag inside towel, etc.). Tile should be placed upside down when starting with larger piece and protective eyewear and gloves are recommended for safety.
Adhesives:
There are a variety of adhesives that may be used for mosaic projects. It is often a matter of preference. There are large quantity, economical materials for large projects, smaller and cleaner materials for small/indoor projects and they vary in cost, odor and convenience. It is good to test glue/adhesive to become familiar with its consistency, drying times etc.
• Caulking: My favorite all-around adhesive is “caulking”. I love the convenience of having an easy to use tube which allows me to simply “squirt” a dab directly onto the tile/glass. There are a variety of brands, some containing silicone, others without. I have had success with vertical projects (where glass/tile might tend to “slip/slide” with other adhesives) using caulking since it is quite sticky and holds the tile in place. It generally takes 2-3 days to harden which can be a good thing if you are to move or re-arrange the tile/glass. In an outdoor installation, I simply used a water-proof/weather resistant version and it has held up against rain, freezing temperatures, heat with no problems. It can be more costly than other materials. It comes in small tubes and can also be purchased and attached to caulking guns for larger projects.
• Weldbond: In general, one of the best all-around glue products. It is versatile, non-toxic, non-flammable, dries clear and cures stronger than many of the smelly solvent-based glues. (It costs approximately $5 and can be found at ACE hardware). It looks and handles like plain white glue but is much more durable and easy to clean. It would be a great choice for children, indoor (especially “flat” projects such as a tray). I would not trust it to hold up on large-scale outdoor projects.
• Liquid Nails: A variation on the “caulking” which is clear and comes in small tubes and larger tubes that can be installed into caulking guns. It goes on and dries clear which makes it a good choice for outdoor projects involving glass. It does have an odor and is a solvent-based adhesive and therefore, should be used in a well ventilated area. Probably the best choice for outdoor items that may collect standing water or that might be subjected to freezing temperatures. It has a fairly sticky consistency for vertical projects (although not as good as caulking in my opinion). It dries clear and fairly rapidly. Recommend the use of ventilation mask and gloves.
• Mastic/Tiling Compounds: These products are quite economical for large jobs. They must be spread on with a knife or trowel and can be a bit messy at times. They come in waterproof/non-waterproof varieties and will keep well if sealed. If you are working on a flat, large surface and using larger pieces, this may be a good choice.
• Thinset/Mortar: Thinset (a mortar type material), is often used for outdoor installations. It is mixed from a powder and can be a very economical way to cover a large surface such as a wall or floor. It is important that notes are taken regarding the amount of powder to water if consistency is desired from batch to batch to establish drying times etc. It can be messy and the excess if often wasted if not used before it “sets”.
The following trick/technique can be used to clean up glue which might get in between tile/glass and either “stick up” through grout or prevent a good amount of grout from entering the crevice. If using Weldbond, you may wait for the glue to cure for a day or two. Mist the project with water and after about 10 minutes, any traces of glue that are sticking up on the sides of the tile will start to turn white. You can then use an exacto knife or razor to trim away the excess. If using Mastic, you can use toothpicks or a scraping tool or instrument to remove the excess before it dries/hardens.
Grout:
• Grout come in a few different forms: Premixed and powdered; Sanded and Non-sanded.
• Pre-Mixed Grout: In general I would not recommend using any of the pre-mixed grouts. You are better off learning to mix your own which allows you to control the amount and consistency. It is more costly and color selection is often limited.
• Powdered: I would recommend mixing your own grout. You would use a small pail/bucket and either a stir stick, trowel or firm metal object to stir thoroughly. It is best to put a bit of water into the pail and to then add the grout to the water vs. adding water to the powder. Mix for awhile and add powder/water as needed to get a creamy but fairly thick consistency (similar to peanut butter).
• Sanded Grout: I would almost always recommend the use of a sanded vs. a non-sanded grout. The sand prevents shrinking and cracking and tends to create a stronger bond. Some resources will recommend sanded for any crevices greater than 1/8” and non-sanded for any smaller; however, I prefer to only use sanded.
• Non-Sanded Grout: As stated above, may be used for very small cracks/crevices. You can try on a small project if you would like to learn of the differences. I have had much greater success and consistency with sanded grout in general.
For outdoor installations/projects, a grout additive can be added to mix the sanded grout powder instead of using water. The products such as “Tec” are acrylic latex materials that will give the grout more flexibility and durability to sustain harsh weather.
You may add acrylic paint to create your own grout color! First search the available grout colors to be sure that the color that you are interested in, doesn’t already exist. When coloring, it is best to start with Pure White grout although Snow White and Egg shell colors are fine as well. (Pure white grout does not look great unless colored, so unless you intend to color, I would not advise buying a large amount). You will add the paint just before the grout reaches peanut butter consistency (while it is a little “crumbly”. It may take an entire bottle to achieve the hue that you want because the grout will dilute the color. Continue to add paint, water and powder until the desired color and consistency are reached. Be sure to mix enough to complete your project as it is unlikely that you would be able to re-create the exact color/mixture a second time.
For an added sparkle, metallic paints and or glitter paints may be used.
If you want dark, saturated grout colors, it would be best to purchase ready-made ones like navy, black or charcoal
vs. trying to mix them and adding paint.
Basic grout color information: Outdoor projects require darker grout colors like black, charcoal, terra-cotta, which do not show mildew and dirt. Indoor projects can take any color. Choose a color that contrasts with your tile color scheme to really set off your design to really show it off.
Sealants:
It is important to seal the grout when the project is completely grouted and dried/cured. The sealant will protect the grout from cracking, absorbing moisture and discoloring. There are many brands available and generally are applied with a brush. Follow the directions on the can/bottle and be sure to close well once completed. Some sealants are more geared for outdoor environment so be sure to read the descriptions well when selecting your brand. Be sure to wipe the sealant off of the tile/glass once grout has been saturated and sealed.
Christina Williamson – Reproducible with permission Sept. 2007 C
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Contributor's Note
Contact me regarding my upcoming mosaic classes at Nimbus Art Studio in St. Helena, California.
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